My friends needed a septic system that pumps uphill. Their home is at the low point on the plot and for years the septic system has not worked well. They needed to fix it so that they can have toilets which actually flush within the rain. An unusually wet Spring season has accented the issue so that they made the decision to spend the sizable amount of money to fix the problem.
The program includes the regular septic tank then the septic effluent pump tank then a distribution tank located on the top from the hill. The brand new septic tank needed to be placed so as to not disturb the old tank so that the existing system could certainly be used during construction. The pump tank must be located slightly below the septic tank so that gravity would flow the waste water with it. The septic tank effluent pump sits inside the pump tank and pumps this type of water to the distribution tank high on the hill. From that point, the water will drain into the field lines by gravity.
My job ended up being to connect the sump pump and alarm to the electrical supply. The alarm is required through the local sewer codes to make a visual and audible alarm in case the water level in the pump tank exceed a certain level. This gives an early warning that there is one thing wrong with the sewer pump.
For reliability, the alarm has to have their own separate circuit. In the event the alarm was powered through the supply to the pump and the breaker tripped for the pump, there will be no alarm. I installed the alarm indoors so it can simply be seen and heard as suggested through the local plumbing inspector. I connected the wires straight to the alarm panel and ran them all inside conduit to ensure that it could be tamper resistant.
This house had an exterior breaker box originally installed for that AC addition. This box had a couple of extra spaces within it that made a perfect place to pull power for that new septic pump system. I used a 20 AMP GFI breaker for the sump pump service along with a 15 AMP standard breaker for that alarm. Their local ACE hardware had the right breakers for this older Square D box.
By far the most labor intensive part of the job was running the underground wires from your box at the front of the home for the septic field behind the house. Much of the trench needed to be dug by hand because of close proximity from the AC compressor, flower beds along with a sidewalk. A lot of the trench was dug by the plumping contractor using his backhoe.
A 12 gage wire was run for the pump as well as a 14 gage wire for the alarm. The wire used was rated for direct burial so conduit had not been needed. I did so run conduit for added defense against the box down to the foot of the 24 inch qiggkp trench at every end from the wire. I used the identical 14 gage direct burial wire to extend the float wiring from your alarm unit for the field.
In the pump tank, I installed a weather proof single 20 AMP outlet on a 4×4 post. This is where the Myers Sewer pump is connected. The plug offers the required local disconnect since the breaker is not within sight from the pump tank. The float wiring was placed in a separate junction box on the same post.
A bit of conduit was cut to fit into the neck in the tank so the cord towards the septic pump and also the alarm float wiring could be protected. The conduit ends slightly beneath the outlet for your septic pump.
Our local inspector was pleased with the facts and water proofing. I used a compression fitting towards the bottom of each and every conduit run and sealed it with silicone as well to stop critters from finding their way into the junction boxes.
I tied a period of rope to the sump pump, fastened the alarm float to the outlet pipe and thoroughly lowered the sewer pump in place. I secured the free end in the rope to among the lifting lugs of the sewer pump tank. The plumbing contractor can finish his work to obtain their system operational. I am certain they are going to enjoy being able to take baths and flush the toilet even in the event it rains.